Herringbone is the one pattern that makes people stop in a doorway. It is also the one most DIYers are nervous about, because the boards go down at 45 degrees and the first few rows have to be dead straight. The good news is that our 9.5mm herringbone hybrid clicks together like our straight planks, with the underlay already on the back. The whole job comes down to one idea: lay the pattern as a zigzag first, then cut the zigzag straight. This guide walks through all 16 steps from the manufacturer's method, in plain English, with diagrams.
The short version
- Every box has A boards and B boards. A leans left, B leans right. You always alternate them.
- Start in the left corner of your chosen wall with an A board at 45 degrees.
- Lay four full rows as a zigzag, mark a straight line parallel to the wall, then cut the points off.
- Fill the gaps along the wall with the cut triangles, glued in because they are too small to click.
- From then on every row is the same: all the A boards left to right, then all the B boards right to left.
- Leave an 8 to 10mm expansion gap at every wall and cover it with scotia or skirting at the end.
Before you start
Everything in the subfloor guide applies here, and matters more. A herringbone floor shows every hump and dip twice, because the boards cross each other. Get the floor flat first.
- Order 15 percent extra, not 10. Every row starts and ends with an angled cut, and the first four rows get trimmed. Use the flooring calculator and bump the waste up.
- Let the boxes sit in the room for 48 hours before you open them, so the boards settle to the room's temperature.
- Pick the direction. The zigzag usually runs towards the main window or down the longest wall. The direction guide covers how to decide.
- Keep the two board types separate. A and B boards look alike at a glance but the click profile is mirrored. Stack them in two piles as you unpack.
Tools you will need
Tools and materials
Part 1: The first row
- Start in the left cornerBegin at the left corner of your chosen wall. Place an A board at 45 degrees with its long side facing the wall. The gap between the board and the wall must be less than one board length.
- Add a B boardAngle the long side of a B board against the short end of the A board and fold it down to lock. Check the grooves line up before you press down.
- Continue along the wallAlternate A and B boards along the wall, locking each one into place as you go.
- Centre the rowStand back and check the first row sits centred in the room. If the gaps at both ends are too wide, add one more board on the right.
- Cut the end boardsMeasure and cut the boards at each end to fit, leaving an 8 to 10mm gap to the wall. Do the same at the end of every row from here on.
Part 2: Rows two to four
- Install all the A boardsStart the second row with an A board against the first row and fold it down to lock. Work from the left to the right across the whole row, laying only A boards, and finish with a cut piece.
- Install all the B boardsNow go back and fill in the B boards, working from the right to the left. Finish with a cut piece.
- Complete four rowsKeep going the same way until four full rows are down. Do not cut anything straight yet. The zigzag edge along the wall is meant to be there.
Why A boards first, then B boards
Each A board locks into the previous row and the B board next to it. Laying all the A boards in one direction and all the B boards back the other way means every joint folds down cleanly instead of fighting the one beside it. Herringbone that is forced together at both ends at once is how boards get damaged.
Part 3: Straighten the starting rows
- Mark a straight lineThe first four rows must end in a straight edge parallel to the wall. Measure out from the wall at both ends, allow for the 8 to 10mm gap, and mark a straight line across the zigzag with a straight edge.
- Cut along the lineThe easiest way is to leave the left end boards out, run masking tape along the line, and cut with the flooring supported on a few unopened boxes. Then reinstall the trimmed rows and add the end boards from the last row back to the first, with glue in the groove. If you would rather cut the boards one at a time, number them and take a photo first so they go back in the same order.
Part 4: Fill the triangles and carry on
- Install the starting trianglesThe pieces you cut off become the triangles that fill the gaps along the wall. Connect them starting at the left corner. They are too small to click, so glue them in.
- Lay the next rowsSame rhythm as before. From left to right lay all the A boards and finish with a cut piece, then from right to left lay all the B boards and finish with a cut end board.
- Keep the spacers inCheck the 8 to 10mm gap at every wall as you go, including the side walls.
- Repeat to the far wallEvery row from here is identical: all the A boards left to right, all the B boards right to left.
Part 5: The last row and the finish
- The last rowMeasure and cut the boards to fit the final gap, keeping the expansion gap. Use glue on the smallest pieces if they will not click.
- FinishRemove the spacers and cover the expansion gap with scotia or skirting. Fit transition strips at doorways and where the floor meets tiles or carpet.
The floors this guide is for
All six colours in our 9.5mm herringbone hybrid range share the same board, the same click system and the same attached 2mm underlay, so this method is the same for every one of them. They are water resistant and suit kitchens, living areas, bedrooms and hallways. Order free samples before you commit to a colour.
Do
- Lay four rows as a zigzag before you cut anything straight
- Keep A boards and B boards in separate piles
- Glue the small triangles, click everything else
- Check the first row is centred before you commit
- Order 15 percent extra
Don't
- Force a board down with both ends engaged at once
- Skip the expansion gap on the side walls
- Lay over a subfloor with more than 3mm of variation over 2 metres
- Use herringbone hybrid in a bathroom or any wet area
- Mix boards from different batches in one room
Common questions
Do I need glue for herringbone hybrid?
Only for the small triangles along the first wall and any offcut too small to click. Every full board clicks together, the same as our straight planks.
Do I need an extra underlay?
No. The 9.5mm herringbone hybrid has a 2mm underlay attached. Lay it straight onto a flat, clean, dry subfloor. Over concrete, put a moisture barrier down first.
How much extra should I order?
15 percent. Straight planks only need 10, but every herringbone row starts and ends with an angled cut and the first four rows are trimmed.
Which direction should the pattern run?
Usually with the zigzag pointing towards the main window, or down the length of the longest room. The direction guide explains how to choose and how to carry the pattern between rooms.
Can I lay herringbone hybrid over tiles?
Yes, if the tiles are solid and the grout lines are shallow. See laying over existing floors. Deep grout lines need a skim of levelling compound first.
Is it waterproof?
Hybrid is water resistant, not waterproof. Spills and mopping are fine. Standing water, bathrooms and laundries with floor wastes are not. For a bathroom, use a glue-down vinyl.
Keep reading
- How to prepare a subfloor for hybrid flooring
- How to cut hybrid flooring
- How to measure a room for flooring
- How to install transition strips
- How to lay straight-plank hybrid flooring
Not sure about quantities or the first row?
Send Jordan your room sizes and the colour you are looking at. He will check the boxes, the trims and the layout with you before you order.
Order free samples See the herringbone range
